The hotel is built in a local style with pleasing details, such as the round dining room with glass all around providing great views whilst you tuck into a delicious breakfast. During winter fires burn in the wood burning stoves sited all through the central areas. Uma Paro has internet connections although they can be slow (you are remote) and most mobiles don't seem to work.

The rooms all enjoy fabulous mountain views - the suites are massive and also the butler serviced villas outside the main hotel building define luxury with their own treatment rooms. The standard rooms (see picture) are smaller but still enjoy great views and large windows which can open fully to let Bhutan into your room!

The bathrooms are all furnished to a very high international standard, as are the linens and soft furnishings. I just can't imagine why anyone would be disappointed on arrival at Uma Paro.

It surprised me to find such high quality and varied foods and wine available at this remote place. I had expected varieties of yak stew but under the careful supervision of an international COMO kitchen staff and the advantage of floor space on every flight into Paro, one finds oneself eating rather better than in other luxury hotels. Breakfasts are varied and healthy or as massive as you need them to be. Lots of fruit and homemade fruit juices. Lunch is often taken up a mountain where picnics are re-defined. Wild smoked salmon and spinach salad never tasted so good when eating it over looking Tigers Nest which had just been ascended!

Evening meals are taken either in your room - excellent room service menus - or in the main dining room where you can choose from a varied and interesting menu. All very appetising, including the Bhutanese dishes.

The bar is welcoming and a good spot for a post-trek beer.

An experienced group of trek leaders can take you off for day treks into the surrounding mountains or try the 3 day trek which camps out and descends into Tigers Nest early one morning. All of this should be organised pre-departure. A wide range of trekking possibilities are on offer at Uma Paro, please call for your bespoke requirements.

Mountain biking is an option for a day or more - again, please ask. The bikes (Trek 4500) will be waiting for your arrival. On and off road options are available. I saw only one small group of bikers in the winter-time but it is much more popular in summer.

Yoga - Gabriella runs thoughtful and "suitable for all ability" classes in a beautiful glass fronted room with views across the mouontains. There can be no sweeter words in a yoga session than " find a fix for your eyes in the Himalayas in front of you and relax.." Specialist courses are run periodically - call me.

Post-activity or an alternative to trekking, the Uma Paro Shambhala Spa hits the right note. The pool is beautiful and the adjacent sun-deck open with views down the valley. In the villas enjoy treatments in your own rooms, otherwise head for the 2 dedicated rooms for a fabulous hot stone bath and accomplished massage. The chill out zones around this area are particularly enjoyable. Steam room and a variety of Shambhala treatments available.

Uma Paro lies at 2,300 metres above sea level and an initial walk around the local area will help you to acclimatise. All the itineraries start with easy first days to avoid altitude sickness. I was with a very mixed ability group and we all took care to listen to our bodies and no-one suffered altitude sickness. The guides are incredibly helpful.

Tigers Nest is at 4,000 metres so you must check your insurance as it probably will not cover you. Ask us for recommended insurers.